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“Mammy’s Pound Cake”

July 4, 2007

The 2007 Stroller Cookbook was published last Friday. Congratulations to Lou Parris on a job well done. I was honored when I received a personal invitation from the Stroller himself to submit an article for the fiftieth anniversary cookbook.

My picture appeared in the very first Stroller Cookbook. Inside the front cover of that fifty-year-old publication is one of those family pictures that you wish you could avoid when you are almost thirteen and the oldest of eight children. In the photograph, taken by B and B Studio, I am standing behind six of my seven younger siblings. My right hand is on my mother’s shoulder, and my left hand is on the shoulder of my younger brother Bill.

As I recall, my mother had submitted a recipe for caramel cake to the Stroller just a few days before my youngest sister, Kitty, was born. Seymour Rosenberg called Mama several weeks later to arrange a time for Harry White to take the picture. By then Kitty was six weeks old, and my dad was hospitalized with a serious infection following knee surgery. Mama agreed to the photo but said up front she had no time to bake a cake.

I rode my bicycle to Community Cash Grocery Store, located at the corner of Lucerne Drive and Union Road, to purchase the out-of-date angel food cake pictured in the photograph; the one Mama is pretending to cover with caramel icing. She is actually spreading Peter Pan peanut butter on the store-bought cake. After the photographer left, we all tasted the cake, but we fed most of it to the dog.

Mama died five years ago. A part of her legacy is old-fashioned, down-home Southern cooking. In fact, with a good bit of motherly cajoling and masterful delegating, she compiled and published her own Neely Family Cookbook in 1991. Her goal was to preserve many of the favorite family recipes and stories. She wanted all of us to be able to do some cooking. “People just do better when they’ve been fed,” was her wise advice.

My culinary repertoire is limited to outdoor grilling; boiled shrimp; made-to-order omelets; bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwiches with mozzarella cheese; and my world famous peanut butter and banana sandwich.

If the old saying is true, “The way to a man’s heart is through his stomach,” the men in my family may be the best examples. Good cooking has always had a special place in my heart.

My mama, a graduate of Winthrop College, was a home economics major. With eight children and forty-five grandchildren, it was a good thing she was an excellent cook. My dad, to this day, makes the best grits I have ever tasted.

My grandfather was not much of a cook, but he had some of the best culinary advice. “Don’t get married and hire a cook; just marry the cook.” Pappy did exactly that. In fact, he met my grandmother was at a cakewalk at a Methodist church. Mammy was born and reared in the Lowcountry of South Carolina. Pappy won her pound cake. It was so good that he decided to court her.

In the recent Stroller Cookbook, I shared the treasured cakewalk recipe that I inherited from Mammy. Her melt-in-your-mouth pound cake was beyond compare.


Mammy’s Pound Cake

1 pound sugar                                                                           3 tablespoons cream

1 pound butter                                                                          3 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 pound flour                                                                            1 teaspoon lemon extract

1 pound eggs

            All ingredients must be at room temperature. Cream the butter, and gradually add the sugar. Then mix alternately small portions of flour and eggs. Add cream, vanilla, and lemon. Beat mixture hard for 10 –30 minutes, including mixing time.

Grease and flour a tube cake pan. One inherited from your grandmother works best. Pour batter into the pan. Pound the pan on a hard surface 20 to 30 times to remove all bubbles from the batter. This explains all the dents in the antique pan.

Put the pan containing the batter into a cold oven. Set the oven to bake at 200 degrees for one hour. Then, increase the heat to 300 degrees and bake for about two hours more or until done. (Check the old-fashioned way, with a broom straw. Pull a straw out of a real straw broom. A plastic broom will not work. When you think the cake is done, stick the straw into the cake. Quickly take the straw out of the cake. If the straw has batter on it, the cake needs more time to bake. If it comes out clean, the cake is done.) Turn the cake onto a cooling rack.

            Mammy’s pound cake is delicious! It can be served warm. Thin slices toasted make a good breakfast treat. For special occasions, serve with homemade ice cream.

            As a child, I thought the name, pound cake, came because Mammy pounded the cake pan on a wooden cutting board before she put the cake into the oven. The name actually comes from the exact weighing of the principal ingredients on kitchen scales. That includes weighing the eggs; weigh them out of the shell.

Try Mammy’s pound cake. You’ll like it!

It might even bring romance into your life.

-Kirk H. Neely

© H-J Weekly, July 2007

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